For RTX 5080, here are my top picks:

• Corsair RM1000x: Fully modular, 80 PLUS Gold and Cybenetics Gold certified, featuring a low-noise 135mm magnetic levitation fan
• MSI MAG A850GL: 850W version offering excellent value at $110, comes bundled with 12V-2×6 cable, ATX 3.1 and PCIE 5.1 ready
• Seasonic Focus GX-850: Solid traditional design, bit noisier but reliable

So basically, the consensus here is to aim for at least 850W and make SURE it’s ATX 3.0 or 3.1 for that native connector. Tbh, I'm kind of a newbie but I've been obsessing over the safety specs lately because I'm terrified of a cheap unit frying an expensive GPU. If you want absolute reliability over just getting the cheapest option, here are two I've been looking at: * be quiet! Dark Power 13 850W: This one is 80 PLUS Titanium. Since it's so efficient, it generates way less heat, which I think? should make the internal parts last longer. It’s also famous for being whisper quiet.
* EVGA SuperNOVA 1000 P6: This is a Platinum unit with really tight voltage regulation. It’s got great safety protections like OCP and OTP, which is basically the stuff that keeps your house from burning down if there's a power surge. Honestly, I feel like Platinum is the sweet spot for a high-end build. Is the extra cash for Titanium actually worth it for the safety factor, or is it just for saving a few cents on the power bill? I'm not 100% sure, but I'd definitely feel safer with one of these!

Honestly, when youre looking at the market right now, you gotta be careful because brand names can be pretty deceiving. A lot of companies just slap their sticker on a unit made by a completely different manufacturer. You really want to dig into who the actual OEM is before pulling the trigger. I always look for units that use high-quality Japanese capacitors because the cheap alternatives tend to pop under the kind of stress a high-end card like the 5080 will put on them. Another huge thing to watch out for is the warranty period. If a brand isnt offering at least a 10-year warranty on a high-wattage unit, thats a massive red flag. It basically means they dont trust their own components to last. Also, dont get baited by those cheap units from brands youve never heard of. Sometimes they fake the efficiency ratings or use low-grade protections that wont actually trip when there is a short, which is how you end up with a dead GPU. Basically, you want to stick to manufacturers who have a proven track record of tight voltage regulation and low ripple. If the market research shows a brand has a history of coil whine or bad RMA support, just steer clear, even if the price looks TEMPTING.

I totally agree with the 850W recommendation for a build like this. Honestly, for most people, I think chasing those Titanium or Platinum ratings is a bit overkill. The price jump between a Gold and Platinum unit from the same brand is usually way more than what youd actually save on your power bill over like five years. Just stick to a reputable brand with a solid warranty and youll be fine without spending the extra premium for fancy certificates.

Regarding what #5 said about "I totally agree with the 850W recommendation for..." a high end build like this, i think youre totally right! 850W feels way more secure than trying to squeeze by on less. Im just so excited to get this all set up myself! Honestly safety is everything to me because i always worry about messing things up. It actually makes me think of this crazy time i tried to fix my own kitchen sink last year. I thought i was being so smart and handy but i ended up cross-threading the pipe and water just started spraying everywhere! My dog was barking like crazy and i couldnt find the main shut off valve because it was hidden behind some old boxes in the basement. It was such a frantic mess and we had to use every single towel in the house to soak it up... anyway lol, sorry kinda went off topic there.

Don't skimp on the PSU for a $1000+ GPU! PSUs are pretty cheap in comparison to the GPU cost, and it's worth considering getting an ATX 3.0 or 3.1 PSU. The RTX 5080 requires the 12V-2x6 GPU connector specifically.

The 5080 can top out at 360w, not including transients, and transient spikes can be a problem with older PSUs. I had issues with my older 850W unit on my RTX 3080, even though the power draw was similar. Get something modern with proper transient handling.